Ethical diamonds; they come in all shapes and sizes. After ten years in the jewellery business, and having completed engagement ring designs for numerous clients of Fifi Bijoux, you’d think I’d have seen them all.

So, the day after my fiance proposed, he pointed out that perhaps one should get on with thinking about the sort of ring to have. 

And that was in June….

(If you assume I must have thought about ‘my ring’ every time I designed a clients; not so).

I design for the person(s) sitting in front of me, each client is unique. It really is a case of the ‘devil is in the detail’ in these matters. Some people want a low, practical setting. Others want sky scraper proportions. Some people like classic, diamond solitaires and others like organic, flowing designs with multiple coloured stones. Ethical engagement rings bring their own unique choices; such as which mine to source from, where the diamond is cut and polished and if fair trade gold or fair trade platinum is to be used.

Finding myself to be a particularly challenging client, I set about extracting my preferences.

Often, when approached by a man who wants to surprise his girlfriend with a ring when he proposes (but isn’t sure what sort of ring to choose) I’ll ask about her style, what does she wear when going out for an evening? This is quite a good gauge of how someone wants to be portrayed as themself  (as so often people wear a ‘uniform’ for work; be that literally or in some form of professional attire).

I personally like a little prom dress and high heels.  Platforms, preferably.

 (OK- we like height and structure).

Next question- What does she do ?

 I draw a lot and type things.

(So, not going to be working with small children or rock climbing on a daily basis).

Anyway, after some in depth analysis, I have finally completed the design!

A square radiant 1ct diamond in the centre (mined in Northwest Territories Canada, cut in Indian workshop to highest certified social standards ), with 2 brilliant cut 0.20ct diamonds from fair trading women’s co-operative in Lesotho, cut and polished in fair trading co-operative workshop in Surat, and 2 princess cut Scottish sapphires. (Exceptionally rare, and very beautiful, from my home country and cut by a Scottish gemologist).

The stones will be set in fair trade Platinum and the band will be ethical Rose gold, mined without cyanide or mercury to fair trade standards in Argentina.

I did have a limit on size though. I only have very tiny hands and there’s only room for so much diamond on there!

Size definitely does matter; too big and the diamond will wear you. Too small, and it’s lost and shy.

A strange contrary trend is occurring. Since the recession began ; far from seeing more modest choices  in the size of diamonds I’ve seen them increase.

 Two years ago, the average was 0.30- 0.50ct. Quality was everything. D colour, internally flawless and the setting as simple and streamlined as possible. This year, the average is more like 0.75- 1.00ct. We are creating higher over-sized settings, flamboyant devil-may-care stacking of stones and references to antique styles or unusual  family heirlooms.

The twinkle? The twinkle is critical. Interesting , fancy cuts are more popular. We’ve been using 1ct Marquise cuts, Pears and Radiants. Brilliant and Princess cuts are still considered sparkliest so are arranged on the shoulders of the ring to bring maximum twinkle.

The scattering of diamonds and gems is also a strong trend choice and makes for a very striking look.

Classically styled solitaires which ooze under-stated elegance remain eternally popular and are always a  joy to create.

So, like so many things in life, it’s what you do with it that counts. xxx